The Modern Kenya Safari: 4 Expert Takeaways on Luxury, Layout, and Contrast
We have just returned from the most epic team trip imaginable. If you’ve seen our social media the past few weeks, you’ll immediately understand what I’m talking about.
For twelve nights, seven of us Crafties traveled across Kenya, staying in eight different properties, all with remarkably different styles and value propositions. We stayed in five unique camps and lodges in the Maasai Mara alone.
As you will find detailed reviews of each camp and lodge we visited on our Instagram page (some are already up, and more will be posted in the weeks ahead), I will use this blog post to focus on high level takeaways from this trip. For reference, here is a breakdown of where we stayed and for how long:
2 nights Hemingways Nairobi
2 nights Segera
1 night Alex Walker’s Serian - The Original
1 night Alex Walker’s Serian - Kimya Kimya
1 night Sanctuary Olonanna
2 nights Mara Bushtops
2 nights Ishara Mara
1 night Sheba’s Secret Garden Nairobi
You can find our full itinerary linked here.
Having returned from this trip of a lifetime with some time to reflect, my biggest takeaway is how blown away I continue to be by Kenya. Even visiting Kenya at least once a year and recently being bestowed with the honor of Kenya expertise by Travel+Leisure, I always come home in awe of how much I’m still able to learn about the country. It’s a testament to the fact that in our industry, visiting a place once is never enough to truly understand it.
Combining multiple camps in the Maasai Mara is an itinerary planning strategy that should not be immediately dismissed as overkill.
I’ll admit: I’ve never been a fan of combining multiple camps within the Maasai Mara. This is partly because doing so is often at the expense of including a visit to Laikipia, which you’ll know from everything I’ve written on the region (see takeaway #3) is something I consider top priority. It’s also because for clients visiting both Kenya with Tanzania, the natural combination is the Maasai Mara with the Serengeti: essentially the same two ecosystems, divided by the political borders of their respective countries.
But the reality is that in my ten trips to Kenya, I’d never once consecutively stayed at more than two Mara camps. Doing five on our team retreat made me see things differently, particularly as it relates to the concept of combining a private conservancy with the national park.
The experience travelers will encounter in a private conservancy such as Mara North or Naboisho (which happen to be the two we use most frequently) versus that of the publicly managed Mara Reserve is palpable. As to be expected, the lack of vehicle density or the ability to offroad in the conservancies makes a massive difference when coming across sightings. And it’s a true luxury, though one you might not necessarily pick up on were you not to have experienced the alternative.
Why not then focus strictly on the private conservancies? Well, for several reasons. Firstly, for those prioritizing witnessing the Great Migration river crossings from late June through October, the only way to do so is by visiting the national park. And the Maasai Mara National Reserve is still home to some of East Africa’s most prolific wildlife, as well as the most iconic savanna landscapes. We especially love the geography of the Mara North Conservancy, which is managed by a non-profit conservancy but still part of the National Reserve, and an area to which Ishara Mara has access.
The team’s biggest surprise? The accidental genius of pairing Serian Mara North with Ishara Mara. On paper, it’s a total mismatch—private conservancy versus National Reserve, old-school safari tradition versus contemporary “bush lite” luxury. But in practice? It’s a masterclass in contrast. Beginning at Serian grounds you in a classic and highly nostalgic safari: canvas tents, communal dining, private vehicle with two veteran Maasai guides and the absolute freedom of a private conservancy. The luxury of Serian is found in its purism; it is neither cheap nor easy to maintain such a timeless experience. But Serian aces it, and you’re left feeling as if you’ve had the privilege of unfettered immersion into the wild, coming out on the other side with a far deeper perspective and appreciation for it. At Ishara, you arrive at a place where the focus shifts from the safari itself to you as the participant. The experience is fully designed around you and your comfort, with the understanding that most guests will at this point in the itinerary want permission to slow things down. Yes, you will be given your own incredible Nikon to capture wildlife, as well as a photographer on demand to not only assist you with your camera but also to provide impromptu photo shoots whenever the opportunity arises. But you will also be encouraged to enjoy their unmatched bush spa, get creative in your adult coloring book or simply take the day off from game drives to eat their delicious food, drink their mixologist-prepared cocktails and relax alongside their properly heated pools. This is not Ishara downplaying the magnitude of the bush; they want you as the guest to define how safari will fill your cup.
As I once said in an Instagram post about my stays at the ultra-luxe Sabi Sands villas of Cheetah Plains, “Sometimes I want to be in a mobile tent with a bucket shower and lions rubbing up against the canvas. In other moments life calls for a Japanese toilet warming up my bum as I watch impala from my bathroom window. To experience both is the ultimate luxury.” While Ishara has yet to install heated seats (for better or worse!), the sentiment holds: this pairing creates an unexpected, perfect synergy. But this isn't just a comparison of hardware or thread counts; it’s a seamless shift in how you inhabit the landscape, and what you take away from it. At Serian, fulfillment comes from adventure. At Ishara, it comes from the luxury of agency. It is the seamless transition from being a student of the wild to being the architect of your own restoration.
Mara Bushtops is -quietly- a true gem of the Maasai Mara.
Mara Bushtops has fondly become somewhat of Craft Travel’s proverbial “middle child”. In the strictly literal sense, the camp was sandwiched between Alex Walker’s Serian and Ishara on our itinerary. And on a figurative level, as you may have inferred by now, the connection that each of us felt with these said two camps was fairly profound, thereby rendering it a bit more difficult to give Mara Bushtops the attention it deserves.
Not everyone is comfortable with just how close the wilderness feels at Serian and not everyone chooses to prioritize ultra luxe hard product (and the price tag that comes along with it). And even for those who do, there is still something special about Mara Bushtops, which sits somewhere in the middle. Mara Bushtops has the unique distinction of being situated on its own 6,000 acre conservancy just ten minutes from the Sekenani gate of the Mara Reserve. This means that guests have a choice on any given day: enjoy the privacy of the conservancy or venture into the national park. It’s a particularly valuable feature during peak river crossing season, as Bushtops is strategically positioned just 45 minutes from the Reserve’s major river crossing sites (it’s closest to the Sand River main crossings, but guests can also do the Mara and Talek River crossings in a day). You might want to spend one or two days in search of epic river crossings, and then recover from the frenetic crowds within Bushtop’s Isaaten Conservancy, where plains game is literally everywhere: we had giraffe and zebra visiting us on our sprawling decks and dining tables without end. We heard their resident lion pride roaring all night just below our elevated tents. Walking safari within the conservancy is strongly encouraged, and guests can even do a full-on guided mountain hike from the property. In a way, we probably had our most up-close and personal interactions with wildlife while at Bushtops.
This year, Mara Bushtops has introduced the guarantee of a private vehicle for its guests at no additional cost. This is an incredible value add that really changes the positioning of Bushtops in the market. Like Alex Walker’s Serian, you are assigned two guides, all of whom we found to be excellent. This was actually the only place where we sat fireside with our guides and chatted extensively about Maasai culture, how it’s evolved in an increasingly modern world and how it compares to life in the West.
The camp’s name is reflected in the exceptional style of the tents, which have been built to give the sensation of being suspended above the vast plains in a luxury canvas tent. These are fabulous accommodations, full stop. And discerning touches are noticeable in various regards: each vehicle includes Swarovski binoculars for guests’ use. We were met by the Bushtops team at the Keekorok Airstrip with the most impressive welcome spread of any other camp greeting their guests. Lawrence, Bushtop’s manager with 18 years of tenure, was without question the best we encountered throughout our trip. Bushtops is family owned, and you get the sense that they’ve not only been highly successful in retaining great staff but that they’ve also developed remarkable business from returning clients, many of whom will spend weeks at a time at camp.
Mara Bushtops has two sister properties, both in Tanzania: a permanent camp in the Serengeti and a luxury mobile one that follows the herds of the Great Migration. You can sense the family has a vision for safari and is looking to innovate. This is most obvious with Bushtop’s newest creation: “The Beest”. Owner Andy Stuart has personally overseen the development of Bushtops’ proprietary 6x6 safari vehicle. Unlike a traditional game viewing truck, The Beest boasts lie-flat seats and a full kitchen, allowing the ranger, tracker and guests to roam freely and stay out all night in search of the Serengeti’s greatest wildlife. The Beest will soon come north to Mara Bushtops and make the camp all the more exciting.
The price point of Bushtops is just a tad bit higher than the Alex Walker’s Serian camps. None of us would argue that one is “nicer” than the other, but the former definitely delivers a bit more on comfort and is better suited for those who may not be totally ready for head-on safari immersion. We actually all came away from the experience feeling that a combination of Serian and Bushtops would work extremely well for many of our clients, particularly for families. One thing that Serian, Bushtops and Ishara all had in common was that they could be just as perfect for young families as they could be for honeymooners or older couples. Not many camps have such a wide degree of versatility like that.
The more I think of it, perhaps Bushtops is actually less like a middle child and more like a Goldilocks: the essential sweet spot where Serian’s wild soul and Ishara’s refined sanctuary meet to strike a balance that is, quite simply, just right.
Stop treating the Laikipia Plateau as a "buffer" for the Maasai Mara. Segera Retreat proves that Northern Kenya is often the true main event for the discerning traveler.
If you’ve followed us for some time, you’ll know that we don’t see northern Kenya as a way to fill time before or after the Maasai Mara. Last year we wrote extensively on the region following a visit to Lewa Wilderness. We see it as a requisite inclusion for those seeking something beyond game drives, whether it be cultural or experiential immersion.
With the introduction of the highly endangered black rhino to the Segera Conservancy last year, the property is now officially home to all of the Big Five. Less than five minutes into our first game drive, we spotted the most magnificent male lion and two lionnesses, all three of whom were abnormally active for a mid-day sighting. Ten minutes later, we found our first rhino of many. But frankly, the game drives might just be the least interesting thing about Segera. Like Ishara, Segera is a place where the guest is intended to enjoy African wilderness in accordance to her desires.
At Segera, exclusivity is the name of the game. You will so rarely see other Segera guests, and of course being on 50,000 acres of fully private land means you’ll never see a vehicle that isn’t Segera’s. As was the theme on our trip, Segera provides a private vehicle and guide for each set of guests. There are no “rooms”: all units are massive villas with varying numbers of bedrooms, each with a unique yet unifying style that in turn produces some of the most noteworthy interior design across all of East African hospitality. This is no coincidence, considering Segera is owned by Jochen Zeitz, founder of the Zeitz MOCAA in Cape Town and a renowned global collector. The Zeitz family’s private art collection is yours to be enjoyed on demand at Segera in virtually every space.
Each villa has a dedicated butler though, seemingly by design, the team is not omnipresent. Segera assumes their guests are fairly sophisticated, and that it’s likely not their first rodeo when it comes to luxury safari. That is not to say that the team isn’t attentive or warm; we had one of the best nights of our entire trip thanks to an impromptu late 90s and early 2000s singalong and dance party with our beloved host, Richard, and our endlessly patient and wonderful guide, Manu. Segera want guests to feel at home with their own space. This makes Segera an excellent choice not only for honeymooners but also families and groups of friends who value privacy and a bit of freedom.
It’s very hard to explain to first-time safarigoers just how blissful (and sometimes necessary) freedom can feel after repeated twice-daily game drives. Travelers are spending exorbitant amounts of money with the presumed intention of seeing as much wildlife as possible. Concerns around wasting precious time or downright FOMO often drive us to seize every opportunity to jump in the vehicle and follow fresh tracks. But again, Segera confidently embraces the approach that game drives are not the singular defining feature of an exceptional safari. Segera is a place where you come either to begin or to end an East African journey for the ultimate playground in the bush. Not only are they not limited by their location, they have leaned into a philosophy that feels as much ultra-exclusive European hideaway as it does traditional wildlife camp. Segera is a place that intentionally positions itself as a retreat first and a safari lodge second, offering a sophisticated variety of experiences designed to complement the wild, rather than be constrained by it.
Because we’ve posted quite a bit already on the specifics of Segera on Instagram, we don’t want to bore readers with more specifics of the property. But for those interested in a recap:
Why Segera should be included in any luxury itinerary:
Exclusivity: A 50,000-acre private conservancy without a single other vehicle to be seen, plus your own villa, private guide and vehicle. Night drives and walking safari are available to you on demand.
Food & Wine: The culinary experience at Segera was hands down the best of our entire trip; from curry night to the single best chocolate chip cookie skillet I’ve ever had the pleasure of tasting, dining is next level at Segera, as are each of the unique ambiences employed to make each meal unforgettable.
The Experience: This is where the "retreat" identity really sticks. The gym and spa facilities are the real deal by any standard, and not just "good for the bush." Segera also serves as a strategic base for adventurous types eager to explain the wilder parts of Northern Kenya, one of the best destinations in the world, in my opinion. A day trip via helicopter to Lake Turkana or Mount Kenya is the expedition of a lifetime and perfect complement to what would already be a bucket-list stay at Segera.
Culture & Art: Owned by the Jochen Zeitz, founder of the Zeitz MOCAA in South Africa, Segera is home to his family’s own personal collection along with pieces that are brought in on an exhibition basis. The property eagerly arranges immersive cultural experiences based on guests’ interests
Sustainability: A global leader in conservation-driven luxury since the beginning: with the launch of Segera twenty years ago, Jochen Zeitz pioneered “The Long Run”, Africa’s most comprehensive and successful sustainability initiative comprising the continent’s biggest names in luxury safari hospitality. Visiting their K9 Anti-Poaching Unit and being able to play with the doggies was one of the absolute highlights of our time there.
The "Big Five": Following the reintroduction of the black rhino last year, Segera is now officially a complete Big Five destination. In two nights, we saw all of the Big Five except the leopard, and countless other species.
They don’t call it Segera Retreat for no reason. It is an oasis of all things we love and prioritize in the African bush. The exceptionalism of Segera only further solidifies our position that the Laikipia Plateau should never be an afterthought. For those in the know, Segera can very often be the main event of a Kenyan itinerary.
The Craft team is the best… really.
The journey was an educational experience in every sense. For some on the team, it was their first safari. And for many it was their first time meeting one another. The cautious chemistry that seven women -all from vastly different backgrounds- had long registered on our weekly Zoom calls almost instantly translated into deep connection over every game drive, sundowner and epicurean meal.
But what I found particularly magical was that regardless of how contrasting our personal styles or professional stories may be, we are in perfect alignment with the things that matter most.
We all “get” it. It’s not that we all agreed on everything; we would all notice different details, or have varying ideas as to what we liked or disliked most. But everyone could extrapolate and see the experience through the eyes of her client. Everyone understands what discernment means, and has an immediate sense of what works for whom.
This was one of the proudest moments of my life: being part of a team that is dynamic and harmonious in all facets. To work with seven such insightful, analytical women is already a gift; the fact that each and every one of them is just a downright awesome human being is the cherry on top.
Why Trust This Insight?
This analysis is the result of a coordinated 12-night intensive vetting expedition by seven Senior Travel Designers from the Craft team. Together, we interrogated 8 properties across the Maasai Mara and Laikipia in 2025/2026, testing everything from 6x6 vehicle suspension to the nuances of night-drive ethics. With a Travel + Leisure A-List expertise designation and a decade of annual inspections, we don't just book Kenya—we inhabit it.
