The Puglia You Weren’t Told About: Unfiltered Luxury
We’ve all seen the white washed town of Ostuni or the dramatic cliffs of Polignano al Mar but my favorite memory of the region happened in a place I hadn’t even heard of until I got there. Before my official trip even started, I found a spot that ended up being the highlight of my trip.
I was in Puglia for the first time on an educational trip with the lovely Epoca Collection, and I had one extra day to explore before the rest of my group arrived. While I was already feeling the authentic charm of the region, I’ll admit I was also feeling a little bit unsure. One thing that caught me off guard -in the best yet slightly intimidating way possible- was how much less English is spoken here compared to major tourist hotspots like Rome or Tuscany.
Being totally unfamiliar with the area and a bit out of my comfort zone, I just kept the open mind I always try to have when I travel. I’m so glad I did, because that one extra day in a town I hadn’t heard much about ended up being the experience that defined not only my trip but my understanding of just what makes Puglia so special.
Relais Histò: Where Two Seas Meet
The property I decided on visiting was Relais Histò, a quiet and unpretentious five-star property just a little over an hour drive from Bari Airport, and only 45 minutes from Brindisi Airport. Open year-round, the property sits in the heart of Puglia overlooking the Mar Piccolo in Taranto—a destination often overshadowed by its more famous neighbors like Alberobello, Ostuni, Lecce or even Matera. The thought of it being slightly off the radar is exactly why I decided to check it out. Few things in our industry are more exciting than when you come across a property you’ve never heard of before, feel the instant chemistry from the photos and plan a visit wondering if your gut has led you in the right direction. To find a hidden gem is our version of discovering gold!
Taranto or as most people call it, “the city of two seas” is defined by water. It sits on a bit of land separated by a large outer bay, the Mar Grande (which flows into the Ionian Sea), and the Mar Piccolo, a calm inner lagoon where the hotel is located. It has a complex history with visible traces to both Greek and Roman civilizations making it home to many major archaeological sites.
The owner, Adriana, had texted me the day before arrival confirming plans and kindly offered to pick me up from the masseria I was staying at in Fasano. We agreed she would drive me to Relais Histò for the day and back to Fasano the following morning. This small gesture alone instantly made me feel welcome. With Andrea was her property manager, Mariangela and to my surprise, her teenage son Giulio- certainly a typical occurrence on site visits. Nevertheless, the four of us chatted like good old friends for the entire ride, and they excitedly shared everything about Taranto and the surrounding region. It wasn’t a sales presentation, but rather a passionate discussion about the area whose history was so interwoven with their family’s.
Living History: From Aqueducts to Art
We arrived at the entrance of Relais Histò, a beautifully restored 14th century masseria, once an olive oil mill, set on nearly 200 acres of ancient olive oil trees and beautifully preserved countryside. Originally founded by Spartans thousands of years ago, the design of the hotel perfectly combines Greek and Roman architecture of the past with modern luxury. Between the masseria and newly constructed section of the property, Relais Histò houses 50 rooms and suites. Each room is designed differently but all with the same message-a calm yet sophisticated vibe combining rich woods, natural limestone tile and tonal beige color schemes.
To my surprise, a beautiful breakfast was waiting for us as I stepped out to the terrace of my suite. The backdrop was perfect with sweeping vistas of the Mar Piccolo and a rural view of the city of Taranto. It’s a highly coveted yet rarely found combination: a peaceful countryside retreat enveloped by both historic city and sea.
As we chatted and enjoyed breakfast, the pastry chef came out to introduce herself to me. There was something about Marilena that made the entire interaction feel like visiting a long-lost aunt. I didn’t feel like I was being taught a performative lesson on ingredients that I didn’t really care to know or that she really didn’t care to share. She was passionate as she explained about introducing her own grandmother's recipes to the hotel. I felt immediately that if I’d asked her to cook me dinner or invite me to her family’s home, it would have made her day almost as much as mine.
We explored the property’s main spaces before moving onto one of its most cherished spots: the Basilica. Relais Histò’s Basilica dates back to the 11th century AD and today, hosts dozens of weddings and events every year. Intricate and still visible colored frescos adorn the ceilings, but the real beauty and secrets hide beneath the Basilica. An ancient Roman aqueduct, extraordinarily well preserved, winds through an intricate system of underground tunnels still accessible today. They believe that these tunnels once supplied water to the region.
As we made our way out of the Basilica, Adriana surprised me with another special tunnel that was currently being uncovered. This area connects directly to the basilica tunnels, however the passage is so small that you cannot walk directly between them . She led me down steps to a basement area and explained it was once the living quarters for the olive mill workers and their families, with the layout still divided into small “stalls.” Her vision is to transform these original alcoves to a unique gallery for local designers to showcase their craftsmanship. The space will also host hands-on workshops for guests staying at Relais Histò, such as a pottery making class led by a local artisan. What we hear from clients and see for ourselves while traveling is how increasingly difficult it is to find high quality local craftwork without paying Milan designer level pricing. Her vision is the perfect way to marry the unique heritage of property with its guests and the local community. It’s one of the things that makes me most excited to return in the future.
Adriana, along with her wonderful husband Giovanni, not only own and manage the property, they actually live on the property with their family. For special guests, Adriana will open up her home for cooking classes or special wine dinners. She was gracious enough to let me walk through her home and show me through her kitchen, dining room and spacious back patio where special dinners can be arranged. It wasn’t contrived or for show: it was real, imperfect and overwhelmingly lovely.
The Sunday Lunch: A Lesson in Radical Hospitality
It was then finally time for Sunday lunch. This was the real highlight for me and in retrospect I can honestly say that these afternoon hours with Adriana and her family are what made me fall in love with Puglia. If you have ever been to an Italian Sunday lunch, you know it's not just any old meal. Relais Histò made it one of the most memorable dining experiences I think I will ever have.
The setup was incredible. Multiple stations set up on their outdoor patio were adorned with fresh vegetables from the garden, burrata and homemade focaccia for DIY sandwiches… just to name a few!
Yet as good as the food was, it may have been secondary to the people. While Sunday lunch is available for all hotel guests, it's also when the Colomba family gathers to start their week together. I ended up meeting quite literally everyone: Giovanni (Adriana’s husband), their children, her parents, sisters, aunts and uncles.
We spent the whole meal talking about the area and the relaxed Apuligan way of life. After lunch, we all went inside for “game day.” We played cards for hours and laughed so much that I felt like I’d literally spent Sunday with my own family… yet thanks to language barriers, gladly unable to understand or partake in any of the standard potential drama!
The "Anti-Disney" Luxury
When I eventually left Relais Histò to return to meet my group in Fasano, I felt the bittersweet satisfaction of knowing I’d found something so immeasurably special that few other places on the trip could possibly match. Yes, to be forced to continue onward to properties like Borgo Egnazia is hardly a sacrifice. But sometimes there is nothing more satisfying than feeling as if a place that just yesterday seemed so foreign is now remarkably close to home. This is why Puglia shines for so many on our team and for so many of our clients: their vision of hospitality is still reflective of them, and not us. They are sharing what they passionately know and love- not creating a Disney-like experience devoid of imperfections and reality to satisfy a tourist’s vision of old world Italy.
Anyone can book the villa with perfect beach club access or find the hotel with the most followers on instagram. So stop chasing the must see spots and head to a place like Relais Histò. Experience what it actually feels like to be home in Italy. Because the most exclusive luxury isn’t access-its unfiltered and unmapped.
Why We Wrote This: This review is the result of an independent 48-hour immersion in Taranto. While most travelers remain on the surface of Puglia’s "white-washed" coastal towns, we went underground—literally—to vet the 11th-century historical integrity of Relais Histò and the authentic, multi-generational pulse of the "City of Two Seas".
