A Travel Guide to Puglia: Luxury Villas, Boutique Hotels & Authentic Experiences
*Updated August 25, 2025
The ladies of Craft remain enamored by the charms of Puglia. Julia returned for another three-week stay there this July, and she wasn't the only one: Autumn, Meredith and Andrea all made their pilgrimages to Italy's boot and returned home further convinced that there is simply no place we find more inviting or comforting.
As the Amalfi Coast continues to suffer from both overcrowding and mind boggling prices, Puglia is often thrown into contention as heir apparent for Italy’s next premier coastal destination. Can you compare Puglia to Amalfi? Not really, but in many ways that is a compliment to Puglia.
If I could describe Puglia with a single word, it would be dynamic. If you want a dramatic coastline and romance, it’s still hard to beat the Amalfi Coast. But for literally just about everything else, Puglia really delivers. Food, wine, culture, history, architecture, beach, cycling, hiking… Puglia not only has it all, Puglia does it all extremely well AND without the insufferable crowds found virtually everywhere else in Italy.
We’ve updated last year’s hit blog post with fresh intel and new perspectives from Summer 2025. We will continue to update this post with our most up-to-date opinions and feedback on Puglia and hope it will help you discover the destination that, after Miami and Cape Town, is beginning to feel a bit like Craft's third outpost.
Should I stay in northern or southern Puglia?
Lecce & Southern Puglia
As part of an itinerary, Puglia is often split into two parts: north and south. For the majority of our clients, time is a precious commodity and as such many will want to know how to divide their stay between Northern and Southern Puglia. As is the case for much of Europe, the further south you go in Puglia, the more you seem to transport into the past. Southern Puglia lacks the luxury infrastructure many of our clients are accustomed to, but it has tons of charm and some of the Mediterranean’s most gorgeous beaches. The region’s largest city, Lecce, is often called the “Florence of the South” thanks to its impressive history and dazzling baroque architecture.
Top accommodation options are fairly limited in the south. We stayed at Castle Elvira just outside of Lecce, and while it was absolutely charming I would be hesitant to recommend a stay there for most of our clients, at least until they work out a few service-related matters (which I know that they are, as they’ve recently hired a top industry person to assist them in making the property better suited to discerning guests). Long story short, the hotel is a lovely option for independent travelers who aren’t necessarily concerned with being waited on, and/or those who will be out exploring for most of the day and want to come “home” to a magnificently decorated castle. I had hoped to be wowed by some other Lecce hotels widely considered to be high end, but was generally underwhelmed. This was quite a surprise as a few had come highly recommended by some whose feedback I typically trust, and like Castle Elvira, online reviews were spectacular. Ultimately as a travel advisor, nothing can replace a real-life visit to hotels and destinations when you are responsible for making important recommendations to clients. And as I had mentioned on the Craft Instagram account, herein lies the value of professionals who not only do a deep dive into a destination and its properties, but also really seek to know and understand their clients.
I don’t want to downplay southern Puglia. Beyond the incredible history and coasts, there are some lovely villas, which would make a lot of sense for families or groups of friends especially interested in some beach time. However, unless you have plenty of time or really want to focus your trip on the beach, I think most of our clients would be best served staying in Northern Puglia and making a day trip to Lecce for some fantastic foodie experiences and a stroll through the beautiful old town.
Valle d’Itria & Northern Puglia
Northern Puglia encompasses coastal towns such as Bari, Monopoli and Polignano a Mare, but for me the crown jewel of the region is Valle d’Itria. The Itria Valley is home to what came to be my favorite towns in Puglia (more on that in a bit), as well as the iconic towns of Alberobello and Ostuni. Alberobello is best known for its stunning collection of trulli, the traditional Apulian style of whitewashed stone huts with beehive-like roofs. Trulli are found throughout the Itria Valley, and many villas available for rent - including the one we booked - are built in the trulli style. Another thing you’ll notice throughout the valley is lush greenery, a major distinction from the more barren landscapes further south. The juxtaposition of plentiful trees and striking trulli makes for idyllic scenery that I simply fell in love with. And while towns like Ostuni and Alberobello do not disappoint, my personal favorites were the smaller towns of Locorotondo and Cisternino. It’s important to note that even the larger and more famous cities of Ostuni and Alberobello didn’t feel particularly overcrowded; compared to Rome, Florence or Venice, they would seem close to empty. But Locorotondo and Cisternino were even more off the grid.
We returned to our same villa in Cisternino for the second year in a row. Last year, we’d booked it with (uncharacteristically) very limited intel on the town itself. Once I’d confirmed the arrangements I got a bit nervous, and asked some local industry friends for their input, and they advised it was a solid choice. But what we didn’t know until arriving was that Cisternino is actually quite the up and coming destination: Italy’s Prime Minister was summering there alongside us and Monica Belluci has a home there, as apparently many Italian celebrities do. During our trip, we rather serendipitously discovered that a pair of very stylish European parents of our daughters’ friends from school in Cape Town had a home less than a mile away from us, and they confidently confirmed that Cisternino is THE place in Italy to be. This year it was like having our family staying down the road and made it extra special.
Locorotondo was just 10-15 minutes away from us by car and had the most gorgeous old town with zero crowds. We kept waiting for the shoe to drop, assuming there must be some reason every cute restaurant and bar wasn’t overflowing with tourists, yet regardless of the time or day of the week, it remained incredibly charming. One of our favorite finds, just outside of the old town, was Ottolire, a stunning boutique hotel home to Vule, one of the best restaurants we encountered in Puglia. Ottolire was recommended to us by our local friends and was somewhere I would’ve never been able to find without either being in the area for an extended period of time or having connections. It just goes to show how essential our own travel is as advisors in order to be able to really deliver for our clients. Again, nothing can replace first-hand knowledge.
Where to stay in Puglia
Masserias of Savelletri & Fasano
Masserias, or farmhouses, are perhaps the most common types of accommodation found in Puglia and vary from simple b&bs to stylish, high-touch boutique hotels.
Three of our favorite masserias are situated in the Savelletri/Fasano area. This is an ideal location for exploring central Puglia as you're less than ten minutes from the sea but still conveniently set at the foothills of the Valle d'Itria.
Masseria Torre Maizza is a Rocco Forte property, pairing well with the brand's two Sicily properties, Villa Igeia in Palermo and Verdura Resort on the western coast near Agrigento. Torre Maizza is very charming, with beautiful common areas, a gorgeous sprawling pool, impeccable gift shop (probably one of our favorite places to shop in Puglia) and an Irene Forte spa. E-bikes are available for guests to ride around the area, a nice touch for sure. A complimentary shuttle takes guests to Fasano and Savelletri throughout the day, and while Torre Maizza does not have its own beach club, hotel guests are given complimentary access to beach chairs at Le Palme, one of Puglia's trendiest seaside establishments. The masseria currently has 44 rooms but before the end of 2025 will be adding 11 more. Many of the existing rooms overlook a nine-hole golf course, which we'd find to be received with mixed feedback from our clients. The price point is similar to Borgo Egnazia's (more on Borgo Egnazia below), so provides a nice alternative to those who prefer a more intimate five-star experience but do not want to sacrifice on amenities. While guests of all ages are allowed, we see Torre Maizza as being far better suited to adults.
Just next door is Masseria Torre Coccaro, offering a completely different style and experience to its Rocco Forte counterpart. Torre Coccaro has a wonderfully authentic feel; while it's not necessarily polished, you can tell that staff here are extremely aware of their guests, who appeared to be a remarkably diverse demographic in terms of both nationality and age. Torre Coccaro boasts an impressive kids club with an aquatic center sure to excite any young guest neighboring the large main pool. I can see how such placement might be less than ideal for those traveling sans little ones, but they've done a good job of keeping the two areas distinct (and for parents, it's certainly convenient). The activities schedule is bustling, and is not limited to children: various complimentary experiences are included for guests, such as boat rides, wine tastings, pizza making lessons, Pilates in the olive groves and horse-drawn carriage rides, to name a few.
Each room at Torre Coccaro is unique, with some being actual caves (which can be either requested or explicitly turned down at the time of booking). The style is eclectic with lots of warmth; for some it might feel a bit dated but for me it reflects a Puglia that hasn't been whitewashed to appeal to the masses. You can feel the sense of place, most notably in the courtyard where in summer weekly festivals are held, offering guests an enchanted evening complete with live music and traditional dining. Another major perk at Torre Coccaro is the complimentary access and shuttle to Coccaro Beach Club, their sister establishment just about five minutes' drive from the hotel. Coccaro Beach is in my opinion a must-do for anyone spending an extended period of time in Puglia, regardless of your hotel or villa. Non-guests can pay for access and the cabanas are perfectly suited for full day use (I brought my laptop and worked for hours), but the price tag is quite hefty, meaning that Torre Coccaro guests are accessing substantial value by having their beds included in the nightly rate. Unlike most Apulian beaches, Coccaro's is fully private, with a small sandy area and beautiful protected bay with multiple wooden jetties. The vibe at Coccaro Beach is upscale but not at all stuffy. This is a place those in the know have come to enjoy a fun day without crowds and with excellent (and quite well-priced) food from the club's restaurant; they are not in search of an Instagrammable scene.
Torre Coccaro would be my choice for families who want a discerning experience but at a lower price point than Borgo Egnazia. It's also for those who prefer what I'd call a little bit of "funk", or that not everything feels perfectly polished. And of course if you prioritize a chic yet very calm private beach club experience, there is immense value in staying at Torre Coccaro, Overall we found the vibe at Torre Coccaro to be a very positive one; just what one would associate with an Apulian summer.
But perhaps no property took our breath away quite like Masseria Calderisi. Located slightly down the road in Fasano, this stunning hotel was perhaps our summer's greatest pleasant surprise, as we'd had zero intention of visiting (more on that below). I'd heard about Masseria Calderisi from some chic locals and noticed it was a fellow Serandipians member. They were beyond accommodating with our very last-minute stay and from the moment we pulled in were impressed by every detail. Out of the three masserias, Calderisi felt the most beautiful; the decor felt a bit more intentional and sophisticated than Torre Maizza's. I found our stable suite to be much nicer than the comparable suite category at Torre Maizza, though with a significantly lower nightly rate.
All of the public areas ooze with charm, from the reception area to the heated pool and neighboring pool bar to the evening cocktail courtyard. Service was impeccable at all turns. While certainly the most "boutique" of the three masserias, we fully enjoyed the gym, spa (fantastic pedicure) and adorable gift shop. Guests at Calderisi lack for nothing.
And perhaps the biggest bonus of all is Calderisi Mare, the hotel's beach club. As the online reviews were not particularly great, I didn't have particularly high expectations for Calderisi Mare but still decided it was important to see. What a relief to have not judged based on the reviews (a good reminder to us all!), as none of us could get over how incredible it was. As you arrive, the setting could not feel more
Masseria Calderisi would be my go-to Puglia property for couples or adults traveling together. While we were there with children and saw other families, I think it's a property better suited to a mature audience; while the hotel lacks even the slightest bit of pretention, it's just so effortlessly chic that I personally felt a bit guilty having rowdy children splashing about in the pool or storming the sensational breakfast buffet.
VISTA Ostuni versus the Masserias
Interestingly enough, our stay at Masseria Calderisi was a total fluke: We had actually planned on spending our last few nights in Puglia at VISTA Ostuni, a hotly anticipated LHW luxury property that had just opened weeks before. We reached out multiple times to make the (paid) booking without response, despite our wonderful LHW sales partner intervening on our behalf and noting online that the hotel was nearly empty for the nights in question. I mention this not to single them out for poor management (though of course given the complete lack of communication it would be difficult for me to book VISTA confidently for our clients) but rather to detail why we do not have any feedback on the property about which we'd been so excited and has received so much press. Perhaps next year once they've worked through their growing pains we can try again. But ultimately not being able to stay at VISTA was a blessing in disguise, as Masseria Calderisi could not have been more perfect.
Borgo Egnazia
Borgo Egnazia continues to be a sensational property, much loved by all of the Craft team. When compared with the masserias, there's no question that it feels big, and perhaps ever so slightly impersonal. While being highly regarded throughout the industry, I had once heard Borgo Egnazia referred to by a fellow advisor -whose opinion I greatly value- as “Italian five-star Disney World”. This comment always stuck in my mind a bit, and I’d once wondered whether the hotel would be the right fit for high-end travelers who’d be arriving to Puglia after staying in our Italian favorites like JK Roma or Rosewood Castiglion del Bosco, where intimacy and exclusivity are the name of the game.But the reality is that their service and attention to detail at Borgo Egnazia is exceptional, and no guest would ever feel like a number while there.
Yet despite its massive 45 acre compound with 144 rooms, Borgo Egnazia does not feel overwhelming in the least. The spaces have all been intentionally designed to feel cozy, and everything is executed in a way to make each guest feel like the star of the show. The location alongside Savelletri and Fasano couldn’t be better, with direct access to fantastic beach (and two beach clubs), plus a plethora of restaurants in both towns. Within a 20 minute drive, you can find yourself at the majority of Puglia’s most noteworthy towns. But with seven restaurants on site, you never have an obligation to leave to experience great cuisine. As much as I love golf, I don’t typically prefer hotels with golf courses. Borgo Egnazia does however has a fantastic one, and because it’s not really visible immediately from the property, it does not have the feel of a golf resort, something which I think gives it a more elevated vibe.
This year I was particularly impressed by their breakfast, which boasts what is arguably the best Italian buffet I've ever seen (delicious a la carte options are also included). What I loved most was that in addition to the more traditional -yet downright mouthwatering- cakes, breads, fruits and cheeses, Borgo Egnazia has an entire table devoted to salad. While many may cringe at the idea of salad for breakfast, for those intermittent fasting, glucose-conscious guests who always prefer to begin a meal with something green and fibrous, the table is a game-changer.
Funnily enough, we ran into a couple at Borgo Egnazia who had also been guests at Castle Elvira during our stay. They remarked that while prior to the trip, they would have thought they would be more “Elvira” type travelers, in the end they couldn’t believe how intimate Borgo Egnazia felt and how much they loved it. They actually found Borgo Egnazia to feel much more private and romantic, despite being so much bigger than Castle Elvira.
Borgo Egnazia is one of those rare properties that I’ve come to appreciate so much as a parent where the experience is just as good for families as it is for couples. The accommodations are divided into two sections, one of which is adults only, and boasts several of its own pools. Meanwhile the family-side facilities are excellent, with a kids’ club, ice cream shop and various activities scheduled for the younger guests throughout the week.
I think Borgo Egnazia provides a fabulous base for exploring Puglia, and you could easily stay here for a week and not get bored given the amount of things to do at the hotel and the highly central location within Puglia. It also works well for those interested in just a day trip to Lecce, which I think for the typical first-time traveler is more than enough: it’s just an hour’s drive, giving you ample time to go walking through the city to witness its impressive architecture and then get hands-on with a really impressive cooking class.
The charming Ottolire could be a great fit for budget-oriented clients looking to focus on exploring Vale d’Itria. But I have to say that I came away extremely impressed by Borgo Egnazia. We’ve been sending clients there for years with exceptional feedback and after having gone myself, I feel confident it’s the right fit for many - if not the majority- of our clients.
For larger families however, renting a private villa in Puglia makes a lot of sense. Craft has fantastic local villa contacts throughout all of Puglia, something we’ve spent significant time, energy and resources cultivating the past few years. Last year, we were a multi-generational group of ten, ranging in age from three to 70, and having the space of a sprawling trulli home could not have been better. This year we were a smaller group but we loved our villa so much that we had to return to it.
We arranged a private chef to prepare meals for us several times, along with professional pizza makers who utilized our impressive outdoor pizza oven. We walked and biked to a lovely cafe down the road from us for delicious Apulian pastries and, thanks to the central location, were able to use the trulli as a base to explore the Vale d’Itria, coastal towns like Polignano a Mare and even Matera, the world’s third oldest continuously inhabited city which was only 90 minutes away by car.
Side note: Matera was an absolute highlight and I’d consider going back and spending a night or two there to explore more thoroughly. I could not get over how a city with so much cache and such jaw-dropping scenery could be so quiet in the middle of July. Something else to consider: for those looking to combine Puglia with the Amalfi Coast, Matera can serve as a lovely stop along the way, as it’s just over three hours from Amalfi and then another hour and a half to pretty much anywhere the Vale d’Itria or Monopoli/Savelletri area.
Staying in an authentic trulli made the Apulian experience come alive, and from a merely practical standpoint, in the height of summer you quickly realize what a genius invention this style of architecture was: these structures were intended to stay cool. Our villa was incredibly designed and well-appointed, though we heard from friends who’d found places on Airbnb that the standard can (not unsurprisingly) be quite inconsistent. I scouted over a dozen villas and trulli during my stay and am happy to help our clients find the right fit for their families.
As previously noted, villas -or private homes for smaller families- are in many cases the way to when exploring the south of Puglia, particularly when looking for beachfront properties. The hotel options in this region are extremely limited. We have a handful of good options to consider here as well that we can share with you.
What to do in Puglia
I think it’s fairly clear from the above that there is a lot of eating to be done in Puglia. Overall I found the food to be delicious, and typically much less expensive than in other parts of Italy. Beyond the restaurants, there are so many unique experiences centered around food: culinary tours, cooking classes, mozzarella making… you name it! Some of these activities can be found elsewhere in Italy, but it all still feels a bit more authentic in Puglia.
Wine production is integral to Apulian industry, as is olive oil. Olive oil is only really produced in the south of Italy (Puglia, Calabria and Sicily, to be exact), and it’s nice to have the variety of doing tastings not only of wine but also of olive oil. It’s also more family-friendly, and caters perfectly to couples traveling to Italy on their babymoon or those who simply do not wish to drink.
Perhaps most notably, Puglia -from north to south- is an underrated paradise for active travelers: the number of hiking and cycling opportunities is seemingly endless. We have a local partner who specializes in outdoors experiences in the region and it’s remarkable how much can be seen on foot or by bike. There are several stunning coastal hiking paths along national parks, such as Gargano There are several stunning coastal hiking paths along national parks, such as Gargano and Alta Murgia, as well as inland trails that wind through ancient olive groves and medieval villages.
To touch on beaches again, I do think the beaches in Southern Puglia, particularly on the Ionian Sea (western side), are the best in the region. Similar to Torre Coccaro and Masseria Calderisi, Borgo Egnazia, on the Adriatic (eastern) side, has a pretty great beach and the luxury of a beach club, meaning you do not have to worry about crowds or sourcing chairs and umbrellas. But in my opinion, the beaches in the Polignano a Mare area are just too busy to enjoy, and the water is simply not as beautiful as its Ionian counterpart. I did not visit the beaches in Bari, so cannot comment on those, but anecdotally it does appear that the further south you go, the better. And that once you reach the bottom of Puglia’s “heel”, you’ll find yourself on beaches that compete with the best of the Mediterranean.
Again, I’m not sure I really see Puglia as a beach destination: for me, it’s a gorgeous, fascinating region that just so happens to have beaches around it. But you certainly can enjoy a wonderful beach experience by either venturing far south, or (which in my opinion would probably be the case for the majority of our clients) by staying at a hotel further north with a top-notch beach club.
Where to eat in Puglia
The food in Puglia never disappoints and this summer we discovered some lovely additions to our repertoire. Perhaps our favorite was Il Cortiletto, just a five to ten minute drive from all of the aforementioned masserias and Borgo Egnazia. Il Cortiletto is the perfect casual chic dining experience that majorly delivers on dishes without being fussy or overpriced. We couldn't believe all of the beautiful young locals who descended upon the restaurant for a late dinner. It's best to book in advance and request a courtyard table. I highly recommend the antipasti tasting platter.
There are tons of resources out there highlighting restaurants in the more popular towns as well as fancier fare. The below are just a few faves that are easy, delicious and not often cited on social media.
Doppio Zero in Cisternino is one of the best pizza places we've found in Puglia and unlike many places is open seven days a week, including Mondays. Osteria Bella'Italia is also a favorite in Cisternino, a town that like Locorotondo, we find infinitely more beautiful and interesting than Alberobello. In Cisternino it's obligatory to try the famed bombetta, lightly breaded pork typically cooked on a skewer. As someone who typically tries to avoid bacon and would never even think of ordering a pork chop or cutlet, bombetta is a much-loved staple in my Apulian diet.
As previously mentioned, the restaurant at Coccaro Beach Club is excellent and very well-priced. Their salads and mixed seafood platters are the perfect summer lunch, topped off with a two-scoop affogatto for the perfect finale.
Speaking of ice cream, we found the world's best ice cream in Southern Puglia's Porto Cesareo at Imperatore Caffetteria & Gelateria. Less than 90 minutes from the Valle d'Itria and on the Puglia's Ionian coast, Porto Cesareo is a fantastic place from which to charter a boat for the day. As most charters return to the port at around 6:00pm before any restaurants are open for dinner, get a gelato at Imperatore and enjoy the golden hour overlooking the sea before driving 30 minutes to Lecce on your way home and stopping for dinner in the beautiful old town.
Should you visit Puglia?
In full disclosure, I am somewhat of an outlier in that I don’t have the same innate love and appreciation for Italy that many travelers do. While there are some places that are undeniably remarkable and in a league of their own (again, Castiglion del Bosco comes immediately to mind!), I find much of “mainstream” Italy to be grossly overrated, overpriced and increasingly unbearable thanks to mass tourism.
But Puglia provides the antidote to every qualm I have with Italy: the prices are reasonable, the crowds are minimal (for now), the food is consistent, the experiences are authentic and there is simply so much to do. I’m not sure how much longer Puglia has until it faces the same issues found elsewhere in Italy. Many locals or longtime enthusiasts will say it’s already changed remarkably in the past five years. But what my family and I encountered this summer in Puglia was nothing short of magical, and we plan to enjoy it for however long it will last: we’re already planning on returning to our same trulli next summer.
As a destination for clients, I find Puglia extremely exciting: it offers the ability to visit Italy for a second, third or fourth time and experience something completely different, without sacrificing on the wow factor. It’s very hard to imagine any of our clients visiting Puglia with the proper planning in place and not falling in love with it.
It can easily be done on its own for one to two weeks, or combined with various parts of Italy, with nonstop flights into Bari from quite a few major cities and increasingly frequent train connectivity. Neos Air has launched a nonstop flight from JFK to Bari that flies seasonally, and given the expansion of Delta and United to various Mediterranean airports the past few years, I wouldn’t be surprised if we see direct routes to Bari from either airline in the next year or two.
I love pairing Puglia with Sicily, which is what we did last year with a beach finale at Verdura Resort to end our extended stay in Italy. This year we flew nonstop from Malaga to Bari, and then home to Cape Town from Brindisi (Puglia’s smaller but highly convenient airport just south of Ostuni) nonstop to Heahtrow. Last year we had arrived to Puglia from Athens, which has several nonstop flights, and for next year are considering taking the ferry from Corfu to Brindisi . You can also take a daily nonstop train from Rome that take just under 4.5 hours. And while I haven’t personally done it and probably wouldn’t suggest it for the vast majority of clients, we do have friends who’ve taken the executive bus from Naples to Taranto, providing a convenient and inexpensive link between the Amalfi Coast and Puglia.
Because Puglia is so far south, it’s a destination that can be visited year-round, with a much longer spring, summer and fall than its northern counterparts. Yes, summer in Puglia is quite hot, but without the crowds I somehow find it much more bearable! All you need is a pool, well-designed trulli and an aperol spritz to cool you down… and to remind you that you can still find la dolce vita in Italy if you know where to look.
